GRANT SAYS
Sutton Grange Estate Syrah 2009
ABV 14%, RRP $20
Yes you read that correctly. $20. But there’s a bit of a back story. I was enjoying a lovely dinner at my in-laws in country Vic on a chilly Saturday evening. We checked the weather forecast for the next day and it promised sunshine and zero wind. So we thought we’d plan a winery trip. We noticed that Sutton Grange were having a ‘fire sale’ on a huge range of back vintage wines, age worthy and ready to drink and the offers were as low as $5/bottle. We couldn’t resist. So we dined on some excellent pizzas and tapas in their cellar door in front of their blazing fireplace. After lunch, we trundled into the hall and enjoyed a tasting of some outstanding back vintage wines. This 2009 estate Syrah was the pick of the bunch, although the 10+ year old Viogniers were surprisingly excellent. The Syrah was perfectly integrated. Oak and fruit dancing over the palate in complete harmony. Ripe dates and gooey prunes gave way to a black olive tapenade and lashings of dark chocolate and toffee. The length was incredible and the mouthfeel was so well framed by its impressive oaky backbone. It wouldn’t hurt to drop them a line and enquire what they still have available. Shipping to your door would certainly be available. Stock up while the getting is good and enjoy some pristine aged delights from this wonderful winery. Or better yet, take a Sunday drive out to their cellar door and make a perfect day trip out to the Victorian countryside.
Pair with: Beef and Guinness stew with carrot and parsnip on a bed of garlic and chive potato mash.
RICHARD SAYS
2025 Stonier Pinot Noir
Mornington Peninsula, Victoria
ABV 13.5%, RRP $45
Pinot Noir is the variety that thrills with its combination of ethereal, overwhelming aromatics, and incredibly complex, sublime, persistent flavours. The annoyingly erratic top Burgundies (France) cost thousands, and that cost trickles down to their less prestigious wines. It’s scarcity, plus bragging.
Yet Pinot Noir can produce terrific wines elsewhere (Oregon, New Zealand and Australia). It’s ‘merely’ a matter of right sites, seasons, treatments – viticulture and winemaking – and wizardry helps too.
Pay extra to avoid weedy strawberry confections or dry red wines devoid of “pinosity”. The great wines compensate for the frustrations. Within Australia, quality suspects include Adelaide Hills, Mornington Peninsula and the Yarra Valley.
Stonier dropped off my purchase radar for several years, but this wine tweaked my attention. It’s fresh, varietal and delicious – deep ruby colour; add ripe cherries and summer strawberry, plus spices and woodsy notes; then seduction via fleshiness with lingering mixed fresh berry flavours. It has presence, with improvement ahead for a few years if (unlike me) you resist its precocious charms.
Bonus – the Peninsula has stacks of other cellar-doors and sights just over one hour’s drive away.
Goes with? Duck, duck and duck. Not in your culinary repertoire? Try a slab of pan-fried tuna, a free-range chook, turkey or a charcuterie platter.
