Wine vs wine – August 26

Date:

GRANT SAYS 

Clairault Wines Estate Chardonnay Margaret River, RRP $115, ABV 13%

The best ‘winter white’ out there, in my little opinion, would have to be chardonnay. The variety lends itself to a richness and palate breadth which can still feel like a warm cuddle. Chardonnay can also realistically be enjoyed at ‘room temp’ so as to lean into its wealth of flavours and texture. I tried this wine last week and was so amazed by its precise development and unique personality. When a premium chardonnay is carefully cellared for 10 years, there isn’t much that can top it. Fruit was carefully selected from vineyards in Wilyabrup where slightly warmer conditions provide fleshy ripeness and from Karridale in the south which offer intense acidity and the prospect of ageing. The estate chardonnay is handpicked, whole bunch pressed into French oak, un-fined. The nose offers gorgeous lemon and honey butter, charred tropical fruits, creamy lemon curd and juicy ripe apricot. The palate has a soft spice all the way through with lashes of banoffee, Biscoff, flambéed banana, meringue, orange zest and mango sorbet. It’s a divine example of why Margaret River can match it with any chardonnay around the world.

Pair with: Country style chicken pot pie. 


RICHARD SAYS 

2024 Wirra Wirra Church Block Shiraz 14.5%, McLaren Vale, South Australia RRP $25

Alas, some people believe Shiraz is fatally flawed; it lacks complexity, or it’s too big, ripe and alcoholic to be enjoyed, (or weedy/green); or fit only for collectors whose bottles are prized as they gather dust.

Wrong! The best Shiraz wines cover the range from slinky old vines in terrific sites, to fragrant savoury, spicy expressions, that are lovely each way (drink or keep) exemplars. And careful searching brings mighty rewards.

Wirra Wirra is worth a visit just for the picturesque grounds and its legendary catapult! Their ‘Church block’ label is an ultra-reliable red blend, but this offshoot is the second varietal Shiraz ever separately labelled as Church block. And it’s a beauty!

Youthful purple in colour, this wine struts out with scents of blueberry, plum, cocoa dust and savoury spices; it’s juicy and fresh with a complex, compelling mix of red fruits with darker fruits joining. Pepper, shapely tannins, and persistent, complex flavours ride onwards. Another glass is hard to resist. Crazily affordable, and it completely over-delivers on quality. It will surprise even wine snobs.

Matching food choices? Gourmet snags, steak or chops for sure; or a rich casserole or pasta dish – my pairing with home-made flammkuchen worked delightfully too. 

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