RICHARD SAYS
2025 Pikes ‘Luccio’ Fiano Clare Valley
RRP $27, ABV 12%
Here’s a rippingly crisp dry white wine. Fiano (FEE-ARNO) has a future in Australia, it’s more than an ‘alternative variety’ curio, with improving quality (and more wines) visible in Australian wine shows; quality rising with vine age, and learnings both with viticulture and winemaking finesses.
Pikes makes some thrilling wines (I’ve previously recommended a few in this column) and is a compulsory tasting stop when visiting the Clare Valley. This young wine has already won several trophies, and a little searching enables purchase for less than the RRP.
It’s a pale straw colour, with vibrant aromatics of pear, minerals, salinity, wild herb and lime; palate which thrums with energy, white stonefruit, green herb, ginger and just a delicious irresistible texture. All up it leaves you begging for more. Enjoy this wine in its vibrant youth – over the next two or three years. It has its own varietal personality, but with some similarities to Riesling and Marsanne. But just try this very impressive example of Fiano!
Food match – the wine’s raciness means it will deal with oily or fatty dishes with aplomb, so try pasta with a creamy sauce, or chicken with ginger stirfry, even chicken (or pumpkin)-pie.
GRANT SAYS
O’Leary Walker ‘Polish Hill River’ Riesling Clare Valley 2023
RRP $35, ABV 12%
If you’re ever on a jaunt though Clare, pull into the O’leary Walker cellar door on the left as you approach the main town and soak up the scene. Nestled on a high hill with sweeping views, you’ll chat with friendly and knowledgeable staff while you get stuck into some of the best Rieslings on offer. I firmly believe Clare Rieslings are some of the best value wines in the world. The 2023 Polish Hill River proves that, even in the trickier vintages, this variety can still shine and thrive. Aromatics offer an array of complex citrus from lemon cream, lively sherbert, subtle kero, slate and delightful jasmine. The palate has an austere precision yet the acidity remains in check. It’s neither racy or bracing; rather, it offers a soft finish that complements its pithy and textured front palate. The mid palate offers just a little more fleshiness and weight than expected which I very much appreciate and offers a glimpse as to what this wine will develop into in the medium term. Sometimes Rieslings take a generation to develop mature notes but I’ve a feeling, even with another 5 years on the shelf, it’ll present lots of aged notes in infinite amounts of complexity.
Pair with: Spicy chicken stir fry with lemongrass and ginger.
