GRANT SAYS
Peter Lehmann ‘Stonewell’ Shiraz 2016 – Barossa, RRP $120, ABV 14.5%
Peter Lehmann is a stalwart of Barossa winemaking and deserves its sterling reputation for delivering absolute quality and style. The Stonewell shiraz has long been a collectors item for wine enthusiasts but until just a few weeks ago, I’d never had the pleasure of tasting it. I was treated to a glass with colleagues over a late lunch and loved every drop. It’s in an excellent spot to drink right now as it’s retained elements of youth while showcasing intriguing maturity and development, particularly when it comes to oak integration. Aromatics of vanilla bean, cigar box, dark chocolate and black peppercorn coupled with an inky appearance give you pretty obvious clues that this is a serious drop. The palate perfectly balances fruit sweetness with oaky spice. Lots of fleshy plums, all of the chocolatey notes and luxuriously velvety tannins support the full bodied mouthfeel. The finish lingered on and on. With 10 years under its belt, the wine changed and continued to develop as it opened up in the glass. It’s a wine of absolute precision and power. Its price tag, although not cheap, is certainly justified. So grab yourself a bottle for your next ‘special occasion’ around the corner.
Pair with: Medium rare steak with black peppercorn sauce, thick cut fries and a spicy slaw.
N – vanilla bean, cigar box, dark chocolate, peppercorn, leather, very inky and dark in the glass, ripe plums
P – very balanced between sweetness and spice, really chocolatey, velvety tannins, full bodied. Excellent oak integration. In a great spot, lots of youthful notes still but interesting development and tertiary notes once it’s opened up.
RICHARD SAYS
2022 (Jim Barry) Barry and Sons Cabernet Sauvignon, Clare Valley, RRP $25, ABV 14%
Cabernet (and family blends with any Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot) is famed in Bordeaux and grown around the world. This variety absolutely thrives with quality oak, when used skilfully. In Australia, Coonawarra, Margaret River, and the Yarra Valley work best, but there are exceptions!
Cabernet can be austere, with quibbles about the “doughnut” mouthfeel and mid-palate dip. That’s why the blending varieties (even Shiraz in an Aussie blend) can help.
It’s so good to taste a wine with bottle age, and Jim Barry wines characteristically, effortlessly outperform their price. While Clare Valley is renowned for its Rieslings, plus many hearty reds, Cabernet Sauvignon is an outlier, but…
A bracing, rippling deep crimson purple colour leads; blackcurrant, cedar, and plum tease; very intense fruit lingers decisively with graphite and mineral; and carefully managed tannins mean you can merrily put this wine away for five years or more with ease – VFM! So I had absolutely no shame ripping into this savoury number.
Food is absolutely required and lamb any which way wins, but any rich meaty dish (steak, casserole etc) or hard cheeses also work. My match de jour was chicken and chorizo skewers with sweet potato chips and a green salad, so experiment!
