RICHARD SAYS
2024 de Bortoli One line Sangiovese 14%
Rutherglen, Victoria RRP $24
Sangiovese provides Tuscany’s famous wines (Chianti, Brunello), and many companies – hundreds – have produced this ultra food-friendly variety in Australia. I wrote about a different DeBortoli Sangiovese a few months ago, but this wine is from another area (Rutherglen) and is also a bargain, available without drama for less than its (affordable) RRP. I cannot keep up with their deluge of different labels, but quality in a bottle is what I respect; until VFM and cashflow rudely intrude. But here’s a wine that ticked my prerequisites.
This wine combines the flavours of dark cherries, fresh earth, and dried herbs – all savoury; the palate continues the theme, with chalky tannins in a medium-to-full-bodied frame, with some ripe strawberry, plum and black olive notes joining in. I would drink this wine over the next few years while it powers along, and it absolutely, positively demands food.
Food match? This wine improved with decanting (use a jug), but its lipsmacking profile suggests a hearty match. The household staple spag bol will succeed, but meaty casseroles, and even the seemingly unlikely honey/soy chicken wings proved a winner.
GRANT SAYS
Peter Lehmann ‘Margaret’ Semillon 2013 – Barossa
RRP $50
Semillon is somewhat of a ‘sleeper’ in the Australian wine scene. I think we underestimate just how unique and revered it is when viewed with international eyes, especially when it comes from the Hunter Valley. But Semillon out of Barossa has been quietly chipping away over the years, refining its craft and thought of as a favourite child among SA winemakers.
Peter Lehmann is no stranger to the wine drinking public, and if you’re ever in Barossa, definitely check out their gorgeous cellar door and vineyards. It’ll be hard to get your mitts on a 2013 these days but I was lucky enough to enjoy a bottle just the other day. It’s a testament to Semillon’s longevity. The development is incredible and shows no signs of tiring or waning. Semillon ages as good (maybe better?) as Riesling and in similar ways. Aromatics of a freshly popped tennis-ball can, lanolin, macadamia, Weisse bar, bees wax, coconut oil, fresh hay, and a luxurious lick of triple camembert.
The palate displays more ‘cheesy’ notes but veers closer to parmigiano reggiano and blue. Preserved lemon kicks in alongside subtle frozen yoghurt. Its oily texture and weighty palate ensures there’s a lot of wine in the glass. Yep, this wine is super complex. It’ll change multiple times as you sip away and the temperature warms in the glass. If you cellar wine but they’re all reds, certainly branch out to whites; and best to start with a rewarding Semillon.
Pair with: Cacio e pepe.
