RICHARD SAYS
2023 Thistledown
‘Thorny Devil’ Grenache
McLaren Vale, South Australia
RRP $36 ABV 14%
Grenache is now hugely exciting in Australia. Around for a long time (in fortified or red blends), since about 2012 winemakers have treated the variety with more respect – earlier picking, larger oak – and sensitivity. The result is fresher, more perfumed, and ultra food-friendly wines. Sometimes described as ‘working class Pinot Noir,’ I feel Grenache is more like Nebbiolo in how tannins provide shape and texture. Grenache styles range from juicy quaffers, to seriously structured, long-lived wines. McLaren Vale has led the revival, with producers like SC Pannell, Yangarra and Thistledown. Perhaps it’s no coincidence that these obsessed, fanatical winemakers unleash half a dozen different Grenaches each, justifying significant site and style differences. A vivid purple/crimson colour, there’s massive pleasure here; rhubarb, cranberry, blueberry, cherry, rose-hip, and gently exotic spice and potpourri notes. Then a rich, crisp, and lingering set of savoury, chalky minerally flavours completes the picture. There’s no harm, and more pleasure to come if put away for a few years. Just so much seduction and complexity here (with extra in the more expensive Thistledown Grenaches).
Food? Really hard to go wrong. Ok, not seafood but Cajun, casseroles, cassoulet, roast or grilled meats, spag bol, mushrooms…and heaps more.
GRANT SAYS
Seville Hill Reserve Shiraz 2016 Yarra Valley
RRP $40 ABV 14.5%
On an idle Thursday afternoon, my colleagues and I faced the monumental task of tasting a whopping 28 different wines from around Australia and the world. Tough job but someone’s gotta do it! Whites, rosè, bubbles and reds including a $120 reserve cabernet and a cheeky DOCG Brunello di Montalcino. But it was this humble shiraz from merely an hour’s drive down the road (the 25th wine to be sampled that day) that took the cake as the best of the day. Seville Hill Estate is a boutique producer that makes relatively small quantities over an impressive portfolio of varieties including Barbera, Nebbiolo, Tempranillo, Shiraz along with Yarra stalwarts Chardy and Pinot Noir. This Shiraz was surprisingly full bodied for the Yarra Valley. If you like South Aus shiraz, seriously give this a go. Deep and powerful aromatics of chocolate coated plums and a ‘cigar box’ woodiness that begs to be enjoyed right next to a warm fireplace. The palate upholds expectations and delivers brambly cedar, raspberry compote, mulberry, sultanas and a healthy dash of soft spice to wrap it all up. But it’s the length of this that really ensures what an incredible value drop this is. It just keeps going! This is the time of the year to lean into a full bodied shiraz and although Barossa and Mclaren Vale are our instinctive ‘go-to’s’, give this one some serious consideration.
Pair with: Roast beef with duck fat potatoes, baked baby beets, brussel sprouts, Yorkshire pudding and green peppercorn gravy.
