By Jay Clough
To the locals who adore this institution, the idea of broadcasting its virtues to a wide audience, and thus making it harder than it already is to snag a table here, is akin to breaking one of the inner west’s cardinal rules: enjoy, but don’t let the cat out of the bag.
On a warm evening there are not many better places to sit in Melbourne than in idyllic Yarraville, under the eclipse of The Sun, eating this delicious pizza. Locals and their children play on the astroturf as couples happily charge wine glasses, the buzz of D’Asporto’s neighbouring wine bar Bottega singing out into the air. As far as pizza style goes, it’s hardcore Neapolitan: a focus on the deeply fermented dough and base sauce, with mozzarella and toppings used sparingly to showcase the fundamentals.
You won’t find anything other than classic combinations here, so abandon all hope ye who enter here in search of a Hawaiian. A comprehensive offering of 27 different pizzas, divided into white and red base sections, means return visits are rewarded, and D’Asporto is one of the rare Melburnian venues with the superior unfiltered Menabrea on tap. A list of mostly Italian varietals bats above average, and a selection of classic, simple cocktails will satiate those in need of a stiffer aperitivo.
A recent visit on a steamy, wet summer evening saw us gazing out across the village rooftops from D’Asporto’s impressive second floor balcony; one could imagine Juliet singing out for Romeo to save her, were the pizzas here not so good that she’d probably prefer to stay. Dense, juicy roasted eggplant gives satisfying heft to the ortolana pizza, deeply savoury pops of meaty roasted olives cutting through the creaminess of fresh mozzarella. Our zucchine e gamberetti, served on a ‘bianca’ white base, hums with skillfully flecked chilli and freshly torn mint, the prawns perfectly set in a sea of cream, garlic and cheese. Don’t miss the house chilli oil, a gorgeous, rustic mixture of fresh and dried chilli, fresh herbs and extra virgin olive oil; divine when drizzled on crust remnants.
2–6 Ballarat Street, Yarraville
pizzadasporto.com.au
03 9689 6807
