By Ann Marie Angebrandt
The vibrant stretch of Barkly Street in West Footscray—often celebrated as Melbourne’s unofficial ‘Little India’—owes much of its charm to one visionary: Sumit Malhotra.
As the founder and head chef of Aangan, Malhotra not only created an award-winning restaurant, but also transformed the street.
What started as a modest two-table takeaway 20 years ago, has now blossomed into a beloved institution, inspiring a lively one-kilometre strip of Indian eateries, importers and supermarkets.
Malhotra’s journey, however, was far from easy. “When I opened Aangan, there was nothing around us,” he recalls. “It was just darkness beyond our shop. People said Footscray wasn’t the right place for an Indian restaurant.”
But Aangan soon gained a reputation as a hidden gem, especially after it featured in a notable restaurant review. The humble eatery began to grow, expanding its space, staff, and menu, even adding an outdoor function area that now hosts everything from family dinners to weddings.
And what was once a simple one-page menu with staples like butter chicken and rogan josh became a 20-page celebration of Indian cuisine that journeys through India’s diverse regions: from tandoori specialties of the north to coastal curries of the south, and even a selection of fried noodles that nod to Indochinese neighbours.
There’s something for everyone—platters, vegetarian and gluten-free options, a kids’ menu, sticky desserts, and a BYO option (wine only) for those wanting to pair their meal with something special.
On our recent visit, we chose tried-and-true classics. The butter chicken was as creamy and rich as ever, with a deep tomato-garlic sauce; the tandoori chicken was bold and aromatic; and the onion bhaji was crisp and golden. A fluffy garlic naan was perfect for scooping up the sauces, and the fragrant biryani was a highlight.
For dessert, we indulged in Gajjar ka Halwa with pistachio ice cream—a warm carrot pudding with milk, sugar, and ghee. To top it off, we ordered Aangan’s signature mango lassi. We were too full to drink them there, so we added them to our take-aways.
The original Barkly Street Aangan has now spawned seven other locations (mainly across Melbourne’s north and west but as far south as Cranbourne) but Malhotra’s path to culinary success began far from Footscray.
In fact, it began in the kitchens of Delhi’s prestigious Hyatt Regency Hotel. There, Malhotra – then a young, ambitious hotel management graduate – set his sights on becoming a top chef. He knew that international experience would be key and made a bold decision to move to Melbourne.
His time working at Crown Casino gave him invaluable insights into the complexities of large-scale food operations, while other jobs in Melbourne’s city-based Indian restaurants exposed him to a frustrating trend: a reliance on processed and canned ingredients that were being passed off as ‘authentic’ Indian food.
Determined to do it differently, Malhotra opened Aangan with a commitment to freshness and quality. His dedication is evident in the hundreds of kilos of tomatoes he sources weekly from Footscray Market, adjusting recipes based on the tomatoes’ natural sweetness each season. Fresh, locally-sourced ingredients are now a core philosophy at Aangan, contributing to the restaurant’s much-loved flavours.
Yet, Malhotra’s vision extends beyond the kitchen. Recognising the importance of community, he frequently participates in charity events, sometimes serving thousands. “Once you grow, it’s important to hold the hands of others,” he says. “No one can grow without the help of a lot of people.”
Today, Aangan is more than a restaurant—it’s a symbol of Malhotra’s passion, resilience, and high standards for Indian cuisine. His story, marked by hard work, uncompromising quality, and dedication to his craft, is the reason Aangan has thrived in Footscray’s Little India and beyond.
Aangan Footscray – 559 Barkly St, West Footscray. 9689 4175
