RICHARD SAYS
Craiglee Shiraz
Sunbury 2021
RRP $63, ABV 14%
Here’s another frisky, aromatic, modern Shiraz. Craiglee (near Sunbury – almost a Melbourne suburb) is now urban fringe (albeit not as far as the Macedon Ranges). Here, Patrick Carmody has made more than forty vintages – grown, made and bottled on site. I am a friend and perform some menial tasks at this winery. Pepper and spice can loom in modern Victorian Shiraz, often seen in the Grampians (Best’s, Seppelt and Mt Langi Ghiran) and here at Sunbury.
Recent back-vintage tastings (to the early 1980’s) demonstrated the style’s longevity, and array of varied red and dark fruits, with freshness, spices and intrigue. I love this medium-bodied style, where oak is a servant to fruit, and where the winemaker allows site and fruit to speak.
This wine is at the start of its journey – approachable already with dark cherry, raspberry and plum, plus savoury spices. Its structure fills the mouth refreshingly and insists on further sampling. It’s a wine that balances fruit density with elegance, and above all, freshness.
With? Lamb (or pork) chops, mash, mushrooms. Veal schnitzel, or gourmet pizza. Duck! Visit on the first Sunday each month, use Facebook or the website, to check out this nearby high quality “western” winery.
GRANT SAYS
Turkey Flat Vineyards Shiraz Barossa Valley 2021
RRP $55, ABV 14.5%
After a memorable visit to their cellar door a few years back, Turkey Flat holds a soft spot in my heart. Most famous for their (of all things) Rosé, it’s easy to overlook the fact that they simply do not make bad wines, regardless of vintage or varietal. Fruit for this shiraz is plucked from vines planted in 1847, making them some of the oldest shiraz vines in the universe. If I were to sum up this wine in two words they’d have to be “velvety smooth” and I do believe I opened this bottle a good ten years too early, given its longevity, but I just couldn’t help myself. Complex yet primary aromatics of potpourri, black tea and plummy compote add a pretty element. But over the palate, prepare for shiny cedarwood, blackberry and boysenberry, hints of earthy clove and anise and a long, lingering, leathery, tobacco leaf finish. As I mentioned, the texture was like a velvet blanket offering comfort, warmth and room to relish in each individual flavour profile, or a combination of all. It was such an enjoyable drop that my wife and I easily polished off the whole bottle in one sitting. Please consider having a little more patience than me. This bottle was in my house for about 15 minutes before I just had to open it, but careful cellaring for another eightish years will reward you no end. It’ll be the centrepiece for a milestone celebration.
Pair with: Smoked beef brisket with a side of simple slaw, mac ‘n cheese and a heavily buttered dinner roll.
