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Wine vs wine – April 2025

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RICHARD SAYS

2022 Devil’s Lair Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River,
RRP $50 ABV 14%

You won’t see many wines with more, well-deserved trophies than this stunner! This is special, It struts out with a vibrant crimson/purple colour, delivers with mulberries, cedar, bay-leaf, olive, and blackcurrant; then continues the drama with red and dark fruit depth plus ultra-refined essential tannic structural support. Gorgeous and seductive already, but with the grace to justify keeping a few bottles for years if willpower exceeds momentary hedonism.

It’s been far too long since my ‘budget tour’ of Margaret River, but its vinous fame belongs to Cabernet, with the versatile Chardonnay as a very, very strong secondary contender. Margaret River vintages suffer less than elsewhere from climatic variances, and quality is normally ultra-high, aided by a core of talented viticulturists and winemakers. My go-to Margs Cabernet producers include Woodlands, Xanadu, and many others on a more fickle basis.  But Devil’s Lair is on my wish-list too. Add scenery, foodie stuff, random diversions and the memories will transcend transient budgetary over-enthusiasms. Another trip is definitely overdue.

Pair this: This wine deserves the best. Lamb backstrap, or rib-eye steak, hasselback potatoes, mushrooms, snowpeas, and a dash of mustard. Yes please! Some research will prune $10 per bottle off the cursory RRP, and if not, well you have a bargain anyway….  


GRANT SAYS

Fowles ‘The Exception’ Shiraz 2016 Strathbogie Ranges
RRP $80, ABV 14.9%

Do yourself a favour and take a car load of your favourite people 90 minutes up the Hume to a tiny town called Avenel. When you spot the big sign that says ‘Fowles Wines’, pop your left indicator on and head on into their Cellar Door. Since you’ve come this far, stay for lunch and enjoy a thorough tasting, load up your car boot with boxes of your favourites from the tasting. Fowles is an outstanding winery; from the vineyard experience, relaxed atmosphere, wonderful staff and bang on wines. You’ll love it. Now that the nights have a distinct autumnal chill, it’s finally time to crack a shiraz. This 2016 shiraz is flawless. I have five bottles left from a six pack and I’ll relish in a bottle each year and enjoy the nuanced development. Strathbogie Ranges are a sleeping giant of Victorian shiraz. It rivals any other region but also stands out with its unique flavour profiles without losing its ‘deliciousness factor’. Complex aromatics of crème de cassis, seasoned cherry wood and Lindt chilli chocolate entice and surprise. Rich mahogany, black forest fruits, vanilla, mint, slate, cigar box, milk chocolate… the list goes on and on. The only issue with this wine is that my wife and I drank it too quickly, as it was still opening up and gaining even more complexity as we sipped our final glass. Fowles has a huge portfolio of incredible wines and I’d encourage you to drop them a line and order the lot!

Pair with: Medium rare eye fillet steak with a balsamic glazed roquette, parmesan and pear salad. Green beans topped with feta. 

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