RICHARD SAYS
2022 Pizzini ‘Pietra Rossa’ Sangiovese 13.8%
King Valley, Victoria RRP $29
Sangiovese is a key grape of Tuscany (Italy) with Chianti Classico and Brunello exemplars. Apart from varied ‘red, dark or sour cherry’ expressions, the variety is determinedly savoury, earthy and definitively food friendly. It can age stylishly, and be luminously, memorably dramatic.
Apart from pronunciation, challenges include right sites, clones, right seasons, yields and the learnings about extraction and tannin management, and oak (necessary, but older and larger seems more sympathetic), Then there comes marketing and the mystical VFM equation.
In Australia, some producers I admire include Coriole, Fighting Gully and Vinea Marson. The King Valley has seen many families with ‘Med heritage move from tobacco and hops to grapes, with aplomb.
Here, Pizzini makes several Sangiovese and blends (plus Nebbiolo and many more) with the Pieta Rossa an honest, representative and uncompromisingly authentic example, at a very, very keen price. Dark cherry, black tea, spices, dried herbs, fresh earth; then ride along the chalky, fresh, lingering mix of dark fruit, sandalwood and spices. For illuminati – umami, amaro, Chinotto. It’s futile to resist another glass if there’s food and company alongside.
Gimme – slow-cooked beef cheeks with mirepoix. Or oxtail, osso buco or hard cheeses. It’s another versatile wine that will satisfy throughout multiple varied courses of a protracted dinner. One bottle? Not enough!
GRANT SAYS
Coombe ‘Dame Nellie Melba’ 2017 Yarra Valley Blanc de Blancs RRP $65
First and foremost, I recently tried this bubbles and could not fault it. Coombe in the Yarra Valley is a cellar door experience that is as ‘hoity-toity’ as you can get. It is pristine. The estate holds the house of the late, great Dame Nellie Melba, for which this 100% chardonnay is aptly named. Barely an hour up the road out to the Yarra Valley and you’ll find yourself feeling a class above the rest. I’d highly recommend a visit. This 2017 vintage has spent an incredible 45 months on lees in a bottle to patiently build texture, flavour and depth while still retaining freshness, zest and energy. The method to make this sparkling is the same process used for Champagne. With that in mind, the price I feel, presents great value. Youthful aromatics of ocean spray, jasmine, white peach and oyster shell make you wonder how on earth this bubbly is seven years old. The palate gives way to a fluffy, sherbert like texture with waves of oatmeal, stone fruits, Granny Smith apple and fresh baked damper. But it’s the length that impresses the most. The dynamic persistence of an array of flavour profiles just keeps on going and pays homage to the first whiff of aromatics. It also changes with intrigue as it warms to room temperature. Feel free to cellar this wine for another 10 years if you’ve the patience. A truly impressive bubbles that should surely earn a spot on your wine rack as we head into the warmer months.
Pair with: Salmon tartare of avocado, cucumber, shallot, orange zest, sesame kewpie mayo, ponzu, soy and pickled ginger on top of a dry-baked beetroot crisp.
