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    Wine vs wine – June 2025

    Date:

    GRANT SAYS

    Stonehaven Reserve Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon
    RRP $80, ABV 14%

    This is a quintessential Coonawarra Cab Sav. It possesses all the markers I look for when delving into this variety. A deep and brooding opaque inky purple appearance. Aromatics of cedar, elegant mint, enticing eucalyptus, lashings of concentrated Ribena all jump out of the glass. The palate is poised and strikes the perfect balance between full flavours and subtle complexity. Some Coonawarras require over five years of age to round out the edges of its naturally firm and grippy tannins; yet I found this very much ready to go. Yes, it’s still in its primary phase but the plushness and silky texture make it a joy to drink already. It’s structured with whispers of woodfire smoke, and the cedary oak frames the jubey blue fruit tones. The minty freshness lingers in the background playing cameo as opposed to protagonist. As the Melbourne winter finally kicks in we begin reaching for the more full bodied drops, this should be the benchmark whenever you dabble in this world famous region.

    Pair with: Sunday roast lamb with Yorkshire pudding, black pepper gravy, bake parsnip and beetroot. 


    RICHARD SAYS

    2024 Mulline Portarlington Pinot Noir 12.5%
    Geelong, Victoria RRP $62

    Perfume, texture and complexity? Pinot Noir can deliver in skilled hands from a respectable site, a decent season, and a slice of luck – then affordability matters. Successes are hard-earned, and difficult to consistently achieve. It’s the fickleness and challenges that excite winemakers – site, clones, use of whole-bunch, fermentation temperature, native yeast and so on.

    My maiden voyage with Mulline thrilled with high quality across a range of varieties and sites. An impromptu chat with winemaker Ben Mullen quickly revealed his depth of knowledge, experience, and extensive use of small batches. Try the Mulline website or visit at Sutherlands Creek (Geelong) on the first weekend of each month, for a tasting packed with vinous pleasure.

    So, vibrant crimson colour, with the (correct) autosuggestion of morello cherry, rhubarb, dark strawberry, and a bucket of spice. Oak here is properly a sensitive servant to fruit. The palate leans into darker fruits with a touch of earthiness, cranberry, sneaky fine tannins, succulence, crispness, and minerals that promise cellarability and leaves me begging for food – and more wine. 

    Pair with: Duck. A classic match for a reason. Roast, confit, marylands, or other poultry; or veal schnitzel, even pork chops. Instant happiness.  

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