By Gary Lee
In achieving her dream to introduce Venezuelan cuisine (and beyond) to Australia, the effervescent Reveka Hurtado was so successful, that Papelon has quickly generated a following.
The colourful diner is impossible to miss. Its exterior is adorned with wall-sized artwork featuring the phrase Barriguita Llena Contento (a full belly makes a happy heart) painted in bold and eye-catching colours. This vibrant display on the side of Footscray Market along Hopkin Street perfectly captures the essence and spirit of Latin American culture.
Inside, the restaurant is coated in vibrant hues of orange and turquoise, symbolising the beauty of the tropics and vastness of the oceans, exuding a warm welcome for all guests as soon as they walk through the doors.
Papelon’s menu celebrates food from Latin America and the Caribbean, from Mexico to Patagonia. There is so much to try. Their tasty combinations comprise of the tender juiciness of grilled meats, the rich textures of corn, the comforting warmth of rice, the sweet notes of caramelised plantains, the earthy flavours of yams to the hearty goodness of beans.
Papelon stands out as a vibrant hub of flavour, culture, and community, where every dish tells a story, and every ingredient speaks of a journey.
In June, Papelon hosted the San Juan Festival. In contrast to how the celebration is usually held in summer and fixated around a bonfire, Papelon instead brought the community together to celebrate the tradition in the heart of Melbourne’s winter. It came complete with a captivating Paraguayan bottle dance, or Danza de la Botella, a traditional folk dance in which performers dance with glass bottles balanced on their head, and a scrumptious array of food.
Throughout the day Papelon welcomed a diverse group of guests who were treated to an assortment of delicacies which included ceviche (marinated raw fish and seafood from Peru and Ecuador), asado (grilled meats from Brazil and Argentina), bandeja paisa (combination of beans, rice, chorizo and avocado popular in Colombia) and cachapas, which are savoury-sweet corn pancakes from Venezuela.
I had the Paraguayan party pack consisting of mbeju (a buttery, cheesy flatbread), chipa so’o (baked corn dough filled with beef) and payagua (cassava with beef and vegetables). They were all divine, although I really enjoyed the simplicity, flavour and texture of the mbeju most!
Throughout the afternoon I got to learn so much about the rich Latin American culture including traditions that are unique to the San Juan Festival. At midnight, people write down their wishes for the months ahead and cast them into a bonfire. Although there was no open fire in sight, I could sense that many would have had their wish come true.
They can now get some familiar flavours from home, authentic dishes from all parts of Latin America, right here in the heart of Footscray.
