RICHARD SAYS
2023 Salo Chardonnay 13%
Yarra valley, Victoria RRP $50
Chardonnay can veer from the brazen, buxom, buttery styles to mean and lean and all points between. Here’s one that seduced me at a recent tasting of twenty-odd Victorian Chardonnays. The expression of site, low yields, and exemplary winemaking justified the price. Hunt up stockists, and don’t baulk – your quest and cellaring patience will be repaid.
‘Formula wines’ – pick the grapes based on the chemistry, use the familiar oak regime, etc can deliver sound wines lacking highlights and magic. But picking based on flavours, and knowing when to leave the damn thing alone is where artistry and experience reward.
Salo (not Pasolini’s nasty banned/unbanned film) means ‘dirty/affectionately uncouth’ – ‘hands-off’ winemaking techniques that walk the tightrope – wonder, danger, honours. Winemaker duo Steve Flamsteed (Giant Steps) and Dave Mackintosh have the guts and skill to translate the grape quality from the mature Full Moon Vineyard – Gladysdale – into bottle.
It’s a ‘melon’ style Chardonnay, graced with white peach, oatmeal, salinity, texture and vivacity. Fresh, balanced and already irresistible; its future assured as it will maintain tension while increasing palate weight, and complexity.
Matches – I always like Chardonnay with chicken, but recent experiences with cheddar and several softer cheeses have been startling too.
GRANT SAYS
Alkoomi ‘Blackbutt’ Cabernet Blend 2013 Frankland River
RRP $67 ABV 13.5%
There’s more to WA wines than just Margaret River. Great Southern is an enormous geographical wine growing area that comprises several ‘sub-regions’ capable of producing an array of outstanding varieties. Frankland River is situated inland between Albany and Margaret River. Alkoomi’s ‘Blackbutt’ is a star of the region. Each vintage has a different blend breakdown, depending on the conditions of the season. The 2013 iteration has nearly 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Malbec and the rest is splashes of Cabernet Franc and Merlot. These wines are built to last but I feel it’s in its perfect drinking window now. Fleshy plums and cassis surround a chocolatey core, lashings of vanillin, bay leaf and dried herbs all play a role in this seamlessly constructed wine. Secondary and tertiary characteristics abound yet its elegance and restraint still provide a youthfulness. The tannins are perfectly in check and provide a velvety texture that keeps you coming back for more.
Pair with: Slow roasted lamb shoulder, garlic pita and greek salad.
