RICHARD SAYS
2023 In Dreams Pinot Noir 13%
Yarra Valley, Victoria RRP $35
Some people don’t drink Pinot Noir because it’s not robust enough; others drink the variety assuming a ‘lighter red,’ and some folks cannot pronounce it. And how can a lightly coloured wine can contain so much flavour, complexity, and match so brilliantly with food – particularly duck?
Winemakers are besotted – the clones, the degree of ‘whole bunch,’ oak treatments, time on skins, and so on. And that assumes it’s planted in the right places, with a careful yield and the season is kindly. All this time-consuming attention means prices are higher – and forget Burgundy!
Within Australia, the top Pinots are increasingly emerging from Tasmania, although Victoria boasts splendid examples from Geelong, Macedon, and the Yarra Valley – Melbourne’s ‘Dress Circle’.
Here’s a Yarra Valley wine that overdelivers (and not hard to find cheaper than RRP); it’s brightly ruby coloured, and rewards with fragrant mixed red fruits – strawberry, red cherry, raspberry, rhubarb, and a twirl of spices. Those flavours echo, alongside refined tannins that sneak up admirably. This is a wine that is instantly rewarding, and there is no need to cellar it (no harm if you do). It’s a wine that is sensitively self-contained without me thinking “coulda been better if….”
Food? Absolutely – give the Luv-a-Duck Peking flavoured duck breasts a whirl, or a chicken schnitzel; mash and mushrooms on the side will satisfy me.
GRANT SAYS
Heathcote Winery ‘Mail Coach’ Viognier 2022, ABV 12.5%, RRP $33
My wife and I took a spring time drive through the green, undulating hills of central Victoria and found ourselves in the quaint township of Heathcote where the cellar door of Heathcote Winery is conveniently located on the main street. Perched on stools at the classy tasting bench, we shot the breeze with the owner and his partner while they indulged us with their impressive range. I’m always interested in Viognier as its versatility and ability to adapt to different climates and soils, along with specific winemaking techniques, can produce a larger than normal spectrum of styles. The 2022 ‘Mail Coach’ displayed development even after only a couple of years. Bickfords lemon cordial, white jasmine and (interestingly yet immediately identifiable) weet-bix were the main aromatic stars which carried over nicely to the mealy palate. The acidity was very soft and mellow which brought about a robust texture, giving a life and personality to this light bodied white. Once it had warmed in the glass to room temperature, I found hints of fleshy apricot and newly picked nectarine. I really enjoyed the mature notes on this vintage but if you prefer more freshness and youth, the 2023 vintage is available to order on their website with a nice discount if you get the dozen. That’ll be your springtime sipping sorted for the foreseeable future!
Pair with: Battered barramundi tacos with a spicy slaw, avocado, spring onion and chipotle mayo.
