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Wine vs Wine – February 2025

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RICHARD SAYS

NV Morris Classic Topaque 17.5%
Rutherglen, Victoria (500ml) RRP $25 

From Rutherglen, made from the muscadelle grape variety – picked ripe, fermented, fortified with neutral spirit, aged in barrels, and blended to maintain freshness. Formerly known as Tokay and perhaps not as well-known as Muscat, it’s different but equally alluring in character. Generic topaque descriptors include cold tea, butterscotch, toffee, honey, and malt.

Many Rutherglen winemakers grade their releases into Rutherglen, Classic, Grand, and Rare, with the wines gathering complexity and density through these stages. A decent trip should include sampling at  All Saints, Campbells, Chambers, Morris, Pfeiffer, plus Stanton and Killeen. 

This ‘entry-level’ Morris topaque displays terrific grapey floral notes of honey, toffee, malt, dried apricots, and spices. The palate is soft with the toffee and butterscotch notes shining through, with the sweetness integrated beautifully.

Goes with? Once opened, the bottle will keep for weeks, allowing many small glasses. Cheeses will succeed (crumbly cheddar, triple cream brie, washed rinds, even a blue). But experiment with charcuterie or a simple tea-cake!  


GRANT SAYS

Ghost Rock Estate
Pinot Noir 2023 Tasmania
RRP $45, ABV 13.5%

Ghost Rock is situated in a unique pocket of Tasmania aptly named the ‘Cradle Coast’. Just a 15 minute drive from Devenport on the way to Cradle Mountain. 

We’d all love to see more Tassie wine on our shelves but its production is so comparatively small, there’s just not enough to go around. This little fact naturally bumps up the price of Tassie wines, in general. But it’s so worth it, and when you stumble upon a jewel like this pinot noir, you must pounce! 

I think this wine is very underpriced; an absolute steal. With perfumed notes ranging from confected ‘red rippers’ to a leafy, briary stalky edge, terracotta and wonderfully lifted cherry blossoms; the complexity is real. The palate offers a moreish chalky texture and a plush, medium body but offers an array of surprising flavour profiles of ripe forest fruits, tar, smoke, berry compote and a dry, slatey finish; all of which perfectly compliment its enticing aromatics. It perfectly toes the line between an approachable, easy drinking drop and enormously complex, fine wine suited for the finest of dining. It’ll please the masters of wine all the way down to those of us just getting started on our wine journeys. Check out their website and get some shipped right to your front door, that’s my advice!

Pair with: Thai style roast duck salad of leaves, pineapple, cherry tomato, red onion, coriander and toasted peanut with spicy lime dressing. 

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