Gary Lee
Cantonese for ‘heart’s delight’, dim sums have inevitably made their way to the dining tables of many Australians. The term ‘yum cha’ literally translates to ‘drink tea’ in Cantonese, and the experience is often social, communal, and leisurely.
For the uninitiated, I would describe yum cha as a brunch but with generous offerings of dumplings in different shapes, sizes and fillings; great to dip into soya sauce, vinegar or chilli oil, or just on their own. A treat for the whole family.
For us in the west we are lucky to have a cultural icon that still offers this wonderful culinary experience. Located on the corner of Leeds and Hopkins Streets, just by Footscray Market, Golden Horse is easy to spot, just look for the window with glistening roast ducks and the mouth-watering crispy and roast pork hanging by the window.
Upon entry, the mélange of conversations, amplified by the uncarpeted flooring, staff calling out orders (sometimes in Vietnamese, and other times Cantonese, or both at the same time), the sight of foreign fare on trolleys and the hustle of gesticulating waiters set the ambience of this no-frills restaurant.
At Golden Horse, age-old traditions remain. Nothing beats securing a table and seeing the yum cha trolley whizz past. A great variety of succulent nibbles are spread out before you, each one more willing than the next to pleasure your taste buds with an array of flavours and aroma.
To savour the delights of dim sums (not to be confused with the Australian dim sims); all we need to do is point to what looks appealing. Although you won’t always get all the answers you need when you question the ingredients of these bite-size, intensely flavoured dumplings. Some common favourites include ‘har gau’ (shrimp dumplings) and ‘siew mai’ (shrimp and pork dumplings).
There is no crime in asking what particular items are (it can be difficult to tell) and there’s no sin in taking multiple plates. Simply point and nod at whichever dish you want, and it will be yours. As you get your dumplings from the trolley, waiters will record the number of items you have picked on an order sheet. Prices are in accordance with the size and type of dumplings you have selected. If you find it all too intimidating, don’t worry, they have a printed menu for you to order from.
Other things to try include the classic Chinese congee with pork and century egg (may look daunting, but tastes great), and the ‘cheong fun’, silky, smooth, and slightly translucent steamed rice noodle rolls with shrimps.
Go with an open-mind and enjoy the experience; and as for the brave, try phoenix claws (chicken feet)!
We enjoy coming to Golden Horse, not just for the yum cha, but also for Cantonese dishes. When we visit at night, it’s often for a shared meal of ginger scallion crabs (for special celebrations) and steamed ginger and shallot fish with rice!
They serve alcohol but they are BYO too.
Gary Lee
Instagram @divers_eat_y
@garyleecious)
